24 hours in Lisbon in winter

Lisbon in winter has plenty to tempt the curious traveller. Its cafés remain busy, its tiled façades still catch the Atlantic sunshine and its steep streets provide an excellent excuse for a second pastel de nata. December brings illuminated avenues, festive cakes and Christmas markets, while the quieter months that follow reward those who enjoy taking a closer look. If you have just 24 hours in Lisbon, there's no shortage of things to discover, from centuries-old shops and extraordinary craftsmanship to a few stories the city has been keeping to itself.

From its setting beside Monsanto Forest Park, Corinthia Lisbon offers a rather different perspective on the Portuguese capital. There are sweeping city views from the 24th-floor Sky Lounge, modern Portuguese cooking at Erva and an extensive spa for recovering from Lisbon's famously demanding hills. The hotel also has a particularly interesting connection to the city's contemporary art scene, one that begins in the lobby and leads to a little ceramics shop in Chiado later in the day.

8am: Breakfast with Lisbon at your feet  

Start at Sky Lounge on the 24th floor, where breakfast comes with a panoramic introduction to the city. The Tagus glimmers in the distance, neighbourhoods climb the hills and Lisbon's jumble of rooftops suddenly begins to make geographical sense.

Open for breakfast from 7 – 11am, the lounge is an exclusive benefit for guests staying in Deluxe Junior Suites and above. It's worth lingering over coffee, if only to appreciate how much ground the day ahead will cover.

Before leaving, take a look at three ceramic artworks in the hotel lobby. Created exclusively for Corinthia Lisbon by Portuguese artist Anna Westerlund, they're part of a wider collaboration that has given the hotel a new visual identity inspired by the city's traditional azulejo tiles. Westerlund's designs are expressive, colourful and deliberately individual. You'll discover more about the artist this afternoon.

9am: An avenue with Parisian ambitions  

Take the hotel's complimentary shuttle towards the historic centre and begin at Marquês de Pombal, the grand square honouring the statesman who led Lisbon's reconstruction after the devastating earthquake of 1755.

From here, Avenida da Liberdade stretches south towards Restauradores. Opened in 1886, it was conceived in the spirit of Europe's grand boulevards, complete with landscaped promenades, fashionable addresses and enough architectural confidence to rival Paris.

But look down before looking up. Beneath your feet is calçada portuguesa, the distinctive black and white stone pavement that turns Lisbon's streets into works of art. Along the avenue, intricate mosaics and geometric patterns are the work of specialist pavement craftsmen, a tradition that has become one of the city's most recognisable signatures.

December brings another reason to visit, when festive illuminations dress the avenue and nearby streets. For those travelling during the Christmas period, Parque Eduardo VII, just north of Marquês de Pombal, is also known for hosting Wonderland Lisboa, with market stalls, fairground attractions and seasonal entertainment. It's worth checking the year's dates here before making plans.

11am: The serious business of a custard tart

At Fábrica da Nata, order a pastel de nata and a bica, Lisbon's short, strong espresso. The best tarts arrive with a crisp, flaky shell, a soft custard centre and a caramelised top that gives just a hint of bitterness. A dusting of cinnamon is optional, although the Portuguese have strong opinions about such matters.

The tart has a history tied to Portugal's convent kitchens, where egg yolks found their way into an extraordinary repertoire of sweets. In a country where pastries can inspire fierce local loyalties, the pastel de nata has become the undisputed international celebrity.

Winter offers a few other treats worth seeking out. Around Christmas, pastry-shop windows fill with bolo-rei, a crown-shaped cake decorated with candied fruit and nuts, and sonhos, delicate fried sweets dusted with sugar and cinnamon. The latter translates as 'dreams'. Lisbon's bakers clearly understand the importance of good marketing.

12pm: Literary conspiracies and a church without a roof  

Continue into Chiado, Lisbon's historic literary quarter, where bookshops, cafés and elegant storefronts have been attracting writers and curious minds for generations.

Begin at Livraria Bertrand on Rua Garrett. Established in 1732 and recognised as the world's oldest bookshop still in operation, it has survived rather more than the average retailer. Its original premises were destroyed by the earthquake of 1755, but the business endured, eventually settling at its present address in 1773.

During Portugal's dictatorship, the bookshop became a place where literature and politics quietly overlapped. Banned books were concealed from the authorities, while writers and intellectuals continued to gather here. Browsing its shelves today, it's remarkable to think how much of Lisbon's cultural history has passed through these rooms.

Nearby, Largo do Carmo offers an altogether different encounter with the past. The Gothic arches of the Carmo Convent rise dramatically into the open sky, its roof destroyed during the same earthquake that reshaped the city. The decision to preserve the ruins has left Lisbon with one of its most arresting monuments. There's something wonderfully audacious about a church that has spent more than two centuries without a ceiling.

For a final stop before lunch, browse A Vida Portuguesa on Rua Nova do Almada. Occupying the former premises of historic bookseller Livraria Férin, the shop brings together traditional Portuguese soaps, stationery, textiles and beautifully packaged household essentials. It's a reminder that Portuguese design isn't confined to galleries. Sometimes it comes wrapped around a bar of soap.

1pm: Lunch in a former convent  

Cervejaria Trindade has been feeding Lisbon since 1840, although the building's history stretches much further back. Once a convent, it survived the earthquake of 1755 and two subsequent fires before becoming one of the city's most distinctive restaurants.

The setting is extraordinary. In the Sala dos Azulejos, historic tiled panels cover the walls, while the Sala Maria Keil celebrates one of Portugal's most influential decorative artists. Both are worth admiring before turning your attention to the menu.

The Bife à Trindade is the house classic, but there's plenty to tempt seafood lovers. Try the bacalhau à Brás, a Lisbon speciality combining shredded salt cod with potato, egg, parsley and olives, or clams à Bulhão Pato, cooked with garlic, coriander and lemon. For dessert, the restaurant's beer pudding is a particularly intriguing choice, bringing stout and cinnamon into a traditional egg-yolk pudding. The monks might have approved.

For something more informal, Casa da Índia offers the bustle of a traditional Lisbon tasca, with straightforward Portuguese cooking and the lively atmosphere of a neighbourhood favourite.

3pm: The artist behind Corinthia Lisbon's new identity

A short walk brings you to Anna Westerlund's shop on Largo da Trindade, where shelves of handmade ceramics offer a colourful contrast to Chiado's historic façades. Born to a Swedish father and Portuguese mother, Westerlund trained in ceramics at Lisbon's AR.CO art school. Her work celebrates the unpredictable pleasures of the handmade: expressive brushstrokes, unusual shapes and combinations of colour that make everyday objects feel unexpectedly personal. Her ceramics have even appeared at the MoMA Design Store in New York.

The connection to Corinthia Lisbon gives the visit an added dimension. Westerlund created the hotel's new visual identity, drawing on Portuguese azulejos and the city's distinctive personality, alongside the three exclusive ceramic pieces displayed in its lobby. Having seen those works at the hotel, it's fascinating to explore the wider collection here. A handmade bowl or sculptural piece makes a rather more meaningful souvenir when you've met the story behind it.

4pm: A spa ritual inspired by Lisbon's seven hills

After a day spent negotiating Lisbon's cobbled streets and steep inclines, return to THE SPA by Corinthia Lisbon. Its Water Therapy Circuit offers a restorative sequence of hydrotherapy experiences, from the warmth of the sauna and steam room to the invigorating ice fountain and cold plunge.

For something more indulgent, book the Corinthia Massage, a signature head-to-toe treatment available as a 50 or 80-minute experience. It's a welcome opportunity to unwind after exploring the city's seven hills.

As the festive season approaches, THE SPA offers further opportunities for indulgence. The Festive Glow facial brings a little extra radiance to the season's celebrations, while the Winter Spa Retreat pairs an hour in the Water Therapy Circuit with a hot stone massage. Just the thing to leave you feeling refreshed before an evening in Lisbon.

Alternatively, the spa's Portuguese Discovery Journey uses sea salt from the Portuguese coast alongside clove, cinnamon and aromatic oils, ingredients that recall the country's long maritime history. Both offer a more memorable introduction to Portuguese wellbeing than simply booking the usual massage.

6pm: An aperitif at Erva

Back at Erva Restaurante & Bar, the evening begins with a drink and a glimpse of the kitchen preparing for dinner. The restaurant takes its name from the Portuguese word for 'herb', an appropriate introduction to a kitchen that places local produce and contemporary Portuguese flavours at its heart. An open kitchen and wood-fired cooking bring a welcome sense of energy to the room.

At the bar, ask about the current cocktail selection and whether the team is featuring any Portuguese spirits or regional ingredients. Portugal's drinking traditions extend well beyond port, from ginjinha, Lisbon's much-loved sour cherry liqueur, to the country's growing reputation for craft gin. There's no need to hurry into dinner. One of the advantages of spending the evening at the hotel is being able to enjoy each part of it properly.

7pm: A culinary journey across Portugal

Dinner at Erva offers an opportunity to discover Portuguese cuisine beyond Lisbon's familiar favourites. The restaurant's wood-fired cooking brings depth to dishes built around local ingredients, while its Menu Regiões introduces a particularly interesting concept: each month, the kitchen turns its attention to a different Portuguese region, exploring its ingredients, recipes and culinary traditions through a contemporary lens.

It's a reminder that Portuguese cooking changes dramatically as you travel. The seafood traditions of the Atlantic coast have little in common with the hearty meat dishes of the interior, while the islands of Madeira and the Azores have culinary identities all their own.

Ask which region is being celebrated during your visit and let the menu guide you. Pair the experience with a Portuguese wine, perhaps from the Dão, Alentejo or Douro, depending on the dishes. There's a great deal more to discover here than a familiar glass of vinho verde.

9pm: One last drink at Soul Garden

Soul Garden Restaurant & Bar brings a change of mood, with lush greenery, contemporary design and a menu that draws inspiration from Asia and Latin America.

It's an unexpected contrast to Erva's Portuguese focus. Sharing plates and colourful cocktails encourage a more sociable style of evening, while the garden-inspired setting offers a playful departure from the hotel's more traditional spaces.

Settle in for a final drink and enjoy the conversation. Lisbon's nightlife has plenty of famous addresses, but there's something to be said for finding a good bar without having to tackle another hill afterwards.

11pm: The city from your suite

Return to your room or suite, where Lisbon's skyline provides one final view of the day's discoveries. From above, the city becomes a patchwork of illuminated avenues, darkened gardens and distant neighbourhoods. During December, the festive lights add their own flourish, but even without them, Lisbon after dark is quite a sight. After a day that has moved from historic bookshops and convent walls to contemporary ceramics and Portuguese gastronomy, there's time to enjoy the rare luxury of doing absolutely nothing.

The next morning: A small shop with a century of stories

Before leaving Lisbon, make one final visit to Luvaria Ulisses on Rua do Carmo. Founded in 1925, this tiny glove shop is one of the city's most distinctive surviving specialist retailers. Its narrow Art Deco-inspired frontage gives little indication of the craftsmanship inside, where leather gloves are still treated as something worth choosing carefully.

Step through the doorway and let the team help you find the right pair. In an age of anonymous shopping, the pleasure of being personally fitted for gloves feels almost rebellious.

A pair of leather gloves might not be the most obvious souvenir from Lisbon, a city more often associated with sunshine than winter accessories. But as a Christmas gift for someone special, they're a wonderfully thoughtful choice. Beautifully made, genuinely useful and far more personal than the usual festive present, they're a little reminder of a place where craftsmanship, individuality and old-fashioned attention to detail still matter.