24 hours in St George's Bay, Malta, in winter

Winter reveals a quieter side of Malta. The light softens, the harbours grow still and the island’s honey-coloured towns can be enjoyed at an unhurried pace. A boat across the Grand Harbour brings you to the Three Cities, where fortified streets and waterfront cafés hold centuries of maritime history. As evening falls, Maltese cooking turns to slow, generous dishes made for cooler nights. December adds Christmas markets and festive celebrations, but the island’s winter pleasures last well beyond the season. With just 24 hours in Malta, there is a remarkable amount to discover.

At Corinthia St George’s Bay, the day begins beside the sea. The hotel sits on its own stretch of coastline in St Julian’s, with the Mediterranean visible from the moment you step into the lobby. Mornings start gently over coffee at Galerie St George’s, and evenings close at Mananni, where Maltese family recipes are served with genuine warmth. Valletta, the Sliema promenade and the harbour ferries are all close by, which makes the hotel an elegant base for exploring Malta’s history and its coastline alike.

8am: Breakfast by the Mediterranean

A winter morning in Malta deserves a proper breakfast, preferably with the sea in view and no immediate reason to hurry. At Fra Martino, overlooking St George's Bay, the buffet offers fresh pastries, cheeses, cold cuts and hot dishes, while the à la carte menu provides a selection of breakfast favourites prepared with locally sourced ingredients. Settle in with coffee and decide how much exploring you're in the mood for. 

On a clear morning, the bay can look almost summery, although the water tells a different story.  

Malta's year-round swimmers are an admirably determined bunch, continuing their morning dips long after the beach umbrellas have disappeared. The sea temperature falls considerably during winter, so joining them is best left to those accustomed to colder water. For everyone else, there's the considerable advantage of enjoying the view from a warm breakfast table. 

Before leaving, spend a few minutes on your balcony or take a short walk along the waterfront. With summer's busiest months behind it, St George's Bay offers a different introduction to the coast, one that makes it easier to appreciate the surrounding landscape and the island's enduring connection to the sea. 

10am: The Three Cities and the stories behind Malta's great harbour 

For a morning of history, head towards the Grand Harbour and the Three Cities of Birgu, Senglea and Cospicua. Long before Valletta became Malta's capital, this was where the Knights of St John established their headquarters after arriving on the island in 1530. Our Concierge can arrange a car for the journey, which generally takes around half an hour, depending on traffic.

Birgu: a city with centuries behind its doors  

Begin in Birgu, also known as Vittoriosa. Unlike Valletta's orderly grid of streets, Birgu grew over centuries, leaving a maze of narrow lanes, handsome doorways and unexpected little squares. Its history is written into the buildings, from the auberges once associated with the Knights to the churches and residences that survived successive periods of occupation. 

One of the most intriguing addresses is the Inquisitor's Palace. Built in the 16th century as a civil tribunal, it became the residence of Malta's first Roman inquisitor in 1574. For more than two centuries, the building combined an extraordinary range of functions: grand reception rooms, private apartments, courtrooms, prison cells and even domestic kitchens. 

The contrast is striking. Behind the formal architecture of a powerful institution were the practical arrangements of everyday life, including the business of feeding everyone who lived and worked there. Today, the palace offers a rare opportunity to explore both sides of that history. It's also a reminder that Malta's past cannot always be neatly divided into the grand and the ordinary. 

Fort St Angelo: from medieval castle to Royal Navy headquarters 

A short distance away, Fort St Angelo stands at the tip of the Birgu peninsula, commanding the entrance to the Grand Harbour. The fortress has been watching over these waters for centuries, although its name and occupants have changed more than once. 

In the medieval period it was known as Castrum Maris, meaning castle by the sea. When the Knights arrived, they transformed it into their headquarters and strengthened its defences with artillery platforms. During the Great Siege of 1565, the fort played a central role in resisting the Ottoman assault. It later became part of the British naval establishment, serving as HMS St Angelo during the Royal Navy's long presence in Malta. 

That naval chapter ended in 1979, when the departure of British military forces marked a defining moment in the island's modern history. Today, visitors can explore the restored fortifications and discover how a single stronghold has served medieval rulers, crusading knights and a modern navy. The views across the harbour are extraordinary, but the stories behind the walls are every bit as compelling. 

A harbour crossing with a history of its own 

If the weather permits, there's another way to appreciate the Grand Harbour: from the water. Traditional Maltese dgħajjes tal-pass were once an essential form of transport between the harbour's settlements, carrying passengers across the creeks long before modern ferries and road connections changed the way people travelled. 

Their distinctive slender shape and raised ends make them quite different from the colourful luzzu fishing boats seen elsewhere around the island. A short trip offers a close-up view of the fortifications, with limestone bastions rising above the water and Valletta's skyline stretching across the opposite shore. 

If you'd rather stay on land, continue towards Senglea's Gardjola Gardens. At the tip of the peninsula, the famous watchtower bears carved symbols including an eye and an ear, representing the watchfulness once required to defend the harbour. It's a small architectural detail with a rather serious purpose. 

With only a morning available, choose two principal sights rather than attempting every museum and fortress. Our Concierge can help arrange a route that leaves enough time for lunch, with harbour boat trips dependent on the weather. 

1pm: Lunch on the Birgu Waterfront 

After several hours among Malta's fortifications, the Birgu waterfront makes a persuasive case for a long lunch. The marina is lined with restaurants, while the imposing walls of Fort St Angelo rise above the moored boats. It's difficult to imagine a more appropriate setting for seafood, particularly when the morning has been devoted to understanding the island's relationship with the Mediterranean. 

Look for the day's catch, grilled with olive oil and lemon, or order seafood pasta and a glass of Maltese white wine. The island's wine industry has been attracting increasing attention, with indigenous grape varieties such as Girgentina offering an interesting alternative to familiar European favourites. Ask which local wines are available rather than automatically ordering something imported. 

On a sheltered winter day, a table outdoors can be a pleasure. When the wind has other ideas, choose somewhere inside with a view of the marina. Either way, take a little time to watch the harbour. Pleasure craft, ferries and working vessels share waters that have been central to Malta's history for hundreds of years. 

3pm: Spinola Bay, a palace built for pleasure and the old St Julian's

Back in St Julian's, spend the afternoon exploring the neighbourhood that surrounds Corinthia St George's Bay. Start at Spinola Bay, where colourful traditional boats sit at their moorings beneath a waterfront that has changed dramatically over the past century. Today, restaurants and cafés occupy much of the shoreline, but this was once a fishing settlement whose fortunes depended on the sea. 

The bay takes its name from the Spinola family, and its most intriguing landmark is Spinola Palace. Built in 1688 for Fra Paolo Raffaele Spinola, a Knight of St John and Grand Prior of Lombardy, the residence originally stood within extensive gardens that included vineyards. More unusually, the palace was intended as a place of public entertainment and recreation, a purpose recorded in the inscription above its entrance. 

It's an unexpected piece of local history. St Julian's is now associated with restaurants, nightlife and seaside leisure, yet more than three centuries ago a Knight was already creating somewhere for people to enjoy themselves beside the water. The surrounding neighbourhood has changed almost beyond recognition, but the idea has proved remarkably durable. 

From Spinola Bay, continue towards Balluta Bay if the afternoon is fine. The waterfront is dominated by the Church of Our Lady of Mount Carmel, whose Gothic Revival architecture makes a striking contrast to the low fishing boats and contemporary buildings around the harbour. Nearby, the Balluta Buildings are another reminder of Malta's changing architectural tastes, with their decorative façades offering a glimpse of the island's early 20th-century residential ambitions. 

For a shorter outing, stay around Spinola Bay and stop for coffee before returning to the hotel. Winter sunsets arrive early, particularly in December, so there's no need to turn the afternoon into a race against the light. A little time spent watching the harbour is as worthwhile as covering another kilometre of coastline. 

5pm: A winter retreat at Apollo by Dee Spas 

After a morning among historic fortifications and an afternoon exploring the coast, return to Corinthia St George's Bay for a little time indoors. Apollo by Dee Spas offers a heated indoor swimming pool, Jacuzzi and sauna, making it a welcome destination when the Mediterranean breeze has begun to feel less like a holiday and more like winter. 

For a more indulgent experience, book a massage or explore the spa's selection of facial and body treatments. The treatment menu also includes Ayurvedic therapies, drawing on an approach to wellbeing that places emphasis on the relationship between physical relaxation and overall balance. Our spa team can help you choose a treatment to suit the time available and the kind of experience you're looking for. 

Allow enough time to enjoy the facilities rather than rushing through a treatment before dinner. One of the pleasures of returning to the hotel in the late afternoon is having everything close at hand: a swim, a little time to unwind and then the comfort of your room or suite before the evening begins. 

Apollo by Dee Spas is open daily from 9am to 7pm. Advance booking is recommended for treatments. 

7.30pm onwards: Eat the way Malta has always eaten

Some dishes belong to the colder months. At Mananni, our restaurant devoted to Malta's home-cooked traditions, that dish is Soppa tal-Armla, or "widow's soup". The name sounds humble, but the soup is generous. Winter vegetables simmer slowly into a golden broth, which is finished with a softly poached egg, fresh ricotta and a ġbejna, the island's small sheep's cheese. The name is said to come from its thrift, since it could feed a whole family on whatever the garden gave.

Maltese grandmothers make it when the first cold snap arrives, and locals still long for it on a grey winter's day. Have it with a glass of Maltese wine and stay for whatever comes after. Nanna, as the Maltese call their grandmothers, would insist. Mananni is open daily from 6pm to 10.30pm.

10.30pm: A nightcap at Galerie St. George's 

After dinner, return to Galerie St. George's for a nightcap. Set apart from the activity of the main lobby, the lounge offers a more intimate setting for a final drink and a little conversation before retiring upstairs. 

Choose a favourite cocktail or ask the bar team for a recommendation. After a day that has taken you from medieval fortifications to fishing harbours and contemporary Mediterranean dining, it's good to have somewhere comfortable to settle without making any further plans. 

The lounge is open daily until 11.30pm, so there's time to enjoy the evening properly before returning to your room or suite. 

11pm: The Mediterranean after dark 

Back in your room, take one last look across St George's Bay. The coast has a different character after dark, with lights scattered along the surrounding shoreline. Open the balcony door for a minute, and listen to the sea. In winter, it's often the only sound on the bay.

The next morning: A little more of Malta's coastal Character

If you're staying a little longer, spend the following morning exploring another side of St Julian's. A walk towards Balluta Bay and the neighbouring streets reveals details that are easy to miss on a first visit, from older townhouses and traditional balconies to the architectural contrasts that give this part of Malta its character. 

Alternatively, make the most of the hotel's coastal setting. Enjoy breakfast at Fra Martino, take a morning swim in the indoor pool or spend a little time on your balcony before the day begins. Winter doesn't always mean abandoning the outdoors in Malta. On a sunny morning, even a short walk by the sea can feel like a small escape from the season elsewhere in Europe. 

If your departure is later in the day, afternoon tea at Galerie St. George's offers one more opportunity to enjoy the view. Served daily from noon until 6pm, the experience brings together sandwiches, scones, pastries and a selection of teas in the hotel's lobby, overlooking St George's Bay. 

And if the island has left you curious about what lies beyond the next headland, our Concierge can help arrange further discoveries. From historic harbours to fishing villages and coastal walks, there's considerably more to Malta's shoreline than its summer reputation suggests.